Rehman Family Homestay: Relax and Recharge in Ghulkin, Pakistan

A friend asked me, ‘Why are you returning to Pakistan? What is it that makes you want to go back?’ I replied, ‘It’s just a feeling I had when I went last year. Something about the country is special, especially Ghulkin, which resonated with me almost immediately.  About a seven-hour drive from Skardu, the village has stunning scenery with mountain and peak views, and the community warmly welcomes visitors. Once there, I stayed with the Rehman Family Homestay, a homestay with the Rehman family; husband and wife Rehman and Sitara, along with their four kids, Ali, Rafyia, Eliza, and Nadir. Guests will also meet Rehman’s mother, Gul Begum. If you are lucky, you can help make peach jam with her. Be warned, you will probably stay longer than your intended plan.

Ghulkin, Pakistan (Photo by Erin Coyle)

Rehman Family Homestay

I took this photo on my first meeting with the with the Rehman family.

The Rehman family: Ali, Sitara, Nadir, Rehman, Eliza (Photo by Erin Coyle)

Rehman’s father, Khan Baig, sometimes stops at the house. He’s a mountaineer, has stories about his army and hiking days, still works on the farm, and spends time at his backpacker’s hostel, Rehman Backpacker’s.

Family members Gul Begam and Khan Baig (Photo by Erin Coyle)

Rooms at the Rehman Homestay Inn

Group or solo, one can opt to stay in the communal room, which can hold about twelve people, or choose from one of the four single or double occupancy rooms with private bathrooms.

I was with a group the first time I stayed at Rehman Homestay, so we slept in the communal room. About twelve of us were sleeping on mattress pads beside each other. It was a wonderful bonding experience, and after a day of hiking, I slept as soon as I hit the pillow.

I returned with my friend Tung Chi one year later so we could volunteer as English teachers in the schools in the village. Sitara helped us arrange our experience with the principals.

Tung Chi and I shared a private double room with two mattress pads the second time I came here. Some rooms also have beds. These stone rooms are suitable for winter and summer. No AC is needed, and the thick stone walls allow guests to stay warm in the cooler weather. The carpeted rooms are comfortable for yoga, stretching, and relaxing on the floor.

One of the guest rooms (Photo courtesy Rehman Homestay)

Food at the Rehman Family Homestay

Sitara will ensure visitors eat fresh food during their stay. Some of the ingredients from their farm include potatoes, spinach, and carrots. Meals can range from spinach and potato to haleem – chicken mixed with lentils, onions, garlic, and ginger.

(Photos by Erin Coyle)

We also had okra with tomatoes, yak, vegetable noodles, and rice with potatoes. I usually had seconds at every dinner because it was so tasty and fresh.

A few bonuses are apricot cake and grall. Grall resembles a crepe with apricot oil and mulberry jam on top.

Making grall (Photo by Erin Coyle)

Guests can also help with the food prep. Tung Chi and I enjoyed being together in the kitchen with Sitara and her family, helping to cut vegetables for the dishes or preparing the salad in Tung Chi’s case.

 Warm Hospitality

It makes you feel like you are part of the family. Other guests would also join, and sometimes, we would chat in the kitchen and watch how Sitara makes pituk, a harder circular-shaped bread.

Making patuk (Photo by Erin Coyle)

Visitors can enjoy the garden’s crunchy red and green apples and sweet apricots from the tree. When it’s apricot season in August, there’s a chance to help dry them.

Apricots drying (Photo by Erin Coyle)

We also enjoyed going with Rafyia and Eliza when they collected potatoes and spinach from their farm. Nadir was our hiking guide and always happily showed us around. The eldest, Ali, is usually taking people around on tours.

At Black Glacier view point (l-r: Rafyia, Tung Chi, Nadir, Eliza, and writer Erin Coyle)

The Village

When walking around the village of about 1,500 people, the community will greet visitors and welcome them. Expect tea invites when you’re here. Watching volleyball and cricket is also fun; guests can also play.

Something about Ghulkin and staying with the Rehman family enriches a visit here. Whether coming for a few days or one month, the fresh air, food, and wonderful family and community will make travelers want to return. It is a place to relax, recharge, and enjoy being in the mountains.

A Few Tips for Your Visit

The power goes out frequently, so bring a power bank. However, it is nice not to have distractions. If buying an e-sim, the networks differ in the south and north.

Hitch-hiking is entirely safe when traveling around the country. There is always someone who will be happy to pick tourists up.

Payment

Pakistan is primarily a cash-only country, so change money in Lahore or Pakistan before coming to Ghulkin. There are ATMs in Aliabad, about a forty-five-minute drive from Ghulkin, but only a few will work for foreign cards. I had luck with Allied and UBL.

Rehman Family Homestay can also organize transportation and treks for you, such as Patundas Meadows, a two-night, three-day hike that involves crossing a glacier. The family will ensure visitors have a memorable stay.

Padundas Meadows (Photo by Erin Coyle)

For More:

• To book your stay, get in touch on Instagram @rehmanhomestay.ghulkin or on Facebook.
• Pakistan tourism, official tourism bureau

-Photos by Erin Coyle, except as credited. Cover photo by Erin Coyle.